The Atlantic edge of Spain
Versions of this article appeared in the Irish Times, the Irish Post and Primo Life (Australia)
Cadiz Cathedral — in the business of forgiving the sins of the Gaditanos for over three hundred years (Image: Deri Robins)
YOU couldn’t really blame old Christopher Columbus for spending almost four years in El Puerto on Cadiz Bay. He was about to embark on a voyage to a place his friend Amerigo Vespucci would later lend his name to. But it was an uncertain journey in a boat not much bigger than a picnic hamper, and with no guarantee of a safe return.
Still, even allowing for acceptable levels of procrastination, four years sounds a fair whack.
But then, who wouldn’t be reluctant to leave la Bahia de Cadiz — forsaking all that wine, seafood and sunshine in return for a fairly hare-brained jaunt?
At least Christopher’s pilot Juan de la Cosa put his time to good use. Paving the way for his fellow conquistadors, he drew the first ever world map to include the New World, right here in Cadiz Bay in the year 1500.
So there it was, just some 500 years ago, a city positioned at the fulcrum of the known world – and today you can’t even get a direct flight there. Which, with Spanish serendipity, has granted this old seaport a certain parochialism and nonchalance that is utterly irresistible.
Where in the World
The ancient city lies at the end of a thin promontory beyond hectares of salt flats, the Atlantic to one side, La Bahia de Cadiz on the other. Flamingos, avocets, cranes and ever so elegant stilts patrol the salinas; in the sky above, vultures circle menacingly around.
Cadiz has no heavy-hitting attractions, no jack-the-lad architecture, and few museum-musts. Not much point in having many museums when the city has long since celebrated its 3,000th birthday; a museum, you’d think, is a little redundant in that sort of company.
This old city on the Atlantic edge of Spain has, in short, a seductive lack of very much to do. Except for swimming, sun-bathing, strolling through the ancient maze of positively biblical-looking streets, and enjoying a glass of wine in one of the hundreds of tapas bars, restaurants or chiringuitas — the shacks on the beach that serve barbecued seafood.
Fiestas and entertainment
Winter can be a lean time for festivities in Europe, but not Cadiz. It boasts one of the world’s most famous carnivals come February; even better, throughout the year carnival-related events, in effect dress-rehearsals for the big one, take place.
We struck lucky. After swimming in the waters of the totally charming town beach, La Playa de la Caleta, we strolled home via the Avenida Duque de Najera.
Here it transpired that the big event of the day (one of two big events) was unfolding.
An elderly lady had opened her car door into the path of a local bus.
Somehow, the door had become wedged in the door of the bus. As the traffic backed up behind the bus, it seemed a solution would require the patience of Christopher Columbus, and perhaps the navigating prowess of John de la Cosa.
Everyone had an opinion: the lady herself, the bus driver, all the passengers, the Guardia Civil, the woman who sold churros and wine on the beach, a man on horseback, a family on a Honda 50 – even, eventually, us. We left, on foot, just as Cadiz looked as if about to grind to a halt.
La Patrona de Cadiz, Nuestra Señora del Rosario. The little chap below Our Lady is Jesus Actual Christ. Both are applauded as they process through the old streets of Cadiz
The other big event of the day took place that evening. La Patrona de Cadiz, Nuestra Señora del Rosario, was being taken walkabout through the town. Mounted on a huge wooden platform, her statue was paraded along the cobbled streets followed by priests, nuns, local dignitaries, grim-looking policemen, petitioning pilgrims, penitents, ice-cream and drinks sellers — in essence the same people who had been giving an opinion on the-door-in-the-bus incident.
The parade was accompanied by uniformed brass bands. They were all marginally out of tune; enough to give a pleasing beat, but not excessive enough to be painful. You'll hear bands practising the year round for the Carnival as well as Easter, the other major set-piece in Cadiz.
The only surprise was that one of the bands hadn’t made an appearance earlier at the bus incident
To the sound of the music – sometimes mournful, sometimes bristling with rhythm — the ten feet tall Patrona swayed on a huge platform, a paso, through the tight alleyways of Cadiz. As she made her way along the streets, small children would rush forward to touch the platform, and cross themselves.
The Patrona parade processes along ancient, narrow, cobbled streets. The route follows a road map begun by those inveterate traders the Phoenicians, some three thousand years previously.
Passing by impressive mirador-fronted facades, raucous cafes and time-weathered convents, the entourage eventually reaches the massive baroque Cadiz Cathedral. The huge edifice, shimmering on the edge of the Bahia de Cadiz, has a distinctly Moorish appearance. From a tapas bar in the cathedral square — as likely to be stuffed with locals as visitors — you can survey the whole sweep of the building, and the arrival of the procession.
The caleta, or town beach, with its all-day cafe/bar. A single coffee will secure you a table here for the whole afternoon – but you'd be a fool to yourself if you didn't try the torillitas de camarones. In English: shrimp fritters — although, come on, torillitas de camarones sounds an awful lot better (image: Deri Robins)
Cadiz has enough to keep the historically curious occupied for weeks, as befits a place from where explorers set out for the Americas. The city's pre-eminence in world affairs was largely a product of geographical happenstance — an easy run for the ships to the Canaries, thence to America. But after Spain’s brief flirtation with world domination, religious intolerance and attempts at changing the path of European history, it took early retirement from such enervating prominence. It began to play to its real strengths – eating, drinking, dancing, singing, and generally making life a bit more joyful.
Life in Cadiz is a communal affair, carried out in the streets, in bars, and in the squares under the lemon trees – old Cadiz is basically a collection of grand squares connected by a honeycomb of alleyways. And it’s in the squares where you’ll get some of the best fried fish in Europe. We chose Las Flores Freideria in Plaza Topete, and let me tell you we chose wisely. We sat outside for lunch, had a few choice fishy tapas, and shared a bottle of Cava, which certainly did the business.
As the sun set over the Atlantic, we drained our glasses and watched garrulous Cadiz life taking place round us. Nearby an elderly gentleman, surrounded by a handful of his friends, was gesticulating wildly into a phone. Probably saying, “¿Que?! What do you mean you opened the car door into the path of a bus . . . .”
Cadiz key locations
The Cathedral
Its Baroque style was all the rage 300 years ago, but that’s ultra-modern in Gaditano terms. There was a church here from the 13th century; and if you look closely enough you can still see traces of Roman remains on the ocean-side of the building.
The interior is impressive in size and for the quality of artwork on the walls. As grand a place to ask for forgiveness for your sins as you might hope to find.
The battlements at Santa Catalina — Columbus would certainly have enjoyed this very same view from this very same bastion before heading off on his no-frills voyage
El Parque Genovés or Alameda de Apodaca
These old gardens, stretching to the ancient battlements of the city, are dotted with beautifully tiled park benches. In the shade of a jacaranda tree, you can rest up, and survey the bay towards Puerto Santa Maria — from whence Christopher Columbus set forth.
El Torre Tavira
This 18th century tower is the highest point in the city, at one time a watchtower used by merchants to watch out for arriving supply boats.
Gadir Archeological Site
Cadiz is one of the oldest cities in the world, dating back 3,000 years to the Phoenicians. The extensive excavated remains of Gadir (whence Cadiz got its name) focus on different layouts corresponding to periods of occupation from the 9th century BC onwards.
La Plaza de Mina
Located in the heart of the old town, Plaza de Mina was originally the orchard of the convent of San Francisco. The Museum of Cadiz is at number 5 Plaza de Mina. This gives a nifty rundown of what’s been happening in Cadiz these last few millennia.
The Cadiz Carnival — be sure to pack your fancy dress gear. And guitar.
The Carnival
The Carnival of Cadiz is a knees-up of almost ludricous proportions. It's still winter, for God's sake. Yet for two weeks in February, the streets are thronged, and the crowds are entertained by groups called chirigotas, who perform comical or satirical pieces, and comparsas, ensembles who sing in close harmony, not unlike barbershop quartets. Throughout the year bands, groups and storytellers hone their art in the city.
The Shopping
The shopping district round the Plaza San Juan de Dios and the Calle Compañia to Plaza Libertad, home to one of the oldest indoor markets in Spain, will have your credit card screaming for mercy.
Where to stay
Hotel Atlantico (Parador de Cadiz)
A modern 4 star hotel overlooking the bay. Other than camping out on the beach, this is as close as you can get to sleeping by the ocean.
Double rooms from €137.90
Hospederia Las Cortes
Calle San Francisco 9, Cadiz
One of the finest hotels in Cádiz with elegantly comfortable rooms round a central atrium.
Hotel Playa Victoria
Glorieta Ingenerio la Cierva
A huge hotel in the new town, overlooking the extensive Playa Victoria — some three kilometres of strand looking out to the Atlantic.
Hotel Argantonio
Calle Argantonio
An old 17th century home totally renovated, the hotel is decorated in an Arab-Andaluz style. Situated in a tight tangle of streets in the Old Town, this is about as characterful as it comes.